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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. But, nestled high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.